“Outstanding old-vine Shiraz doesn’t need to shout to be heard. From the 103-year-old Mount Edelstone Vineyard, this opens to a mild, measured nose of vibrant red fruits, then a highly strung palate of redcurrant, plum, raspberry and blueberry with liquorice and wild fennel peeking beneath. A very bright, high-acid line keeps the flavours sharply honed, ensuring the slender palate line remains taut and prim. An earthy foil chimes in on the long finish.”