“A third each of Tasmania, Adelaide Hills and Tumbarumba fruit, ‘Baby Yattarna’ is a belter this vintage, benefiting from a significant portion of wine originally destined for Yattarna and Reserve Bin A. The generosity of the latter’s ripe nectarine and pistachio croissant richness grabs you first, but then cleansing acidity, oyster shell tang and bright lemon balm, grapefruit peel and lime juice perkiness take over, meaning your initial impression of opulence ends up as graceful and restrained. The eight months in French barrique (34% new) delivers roundness and mouthfeel more than toasty spice, and the pure fruit flavours linger long. A great buy this vintage, for drinking now or to cellar.”